I really wouldn't mind torquing again if it's safe and correct to do so. Unless retorqueing wouldn't hurt anything regardless of the gasket type. I don't remember if the gasket was one of those "do not retorque" or "no retorque needed" types, and since it's such a small weep, if the bars leak can plug it up I'd rather do that than risk more damage by retorqueing. ![]() My only concern with retorqueing is causing more damage. Well my heater core was removed and bypassed by the previous owner, so I'm not concerned about blockage there. Retorqueing has solved this problem at least once for me. Granted I am using a different gasket - it's the Nissan comp gasket that requires machined recess for the separate fire rings, so its easier to have small leaks like this. Don't loosen them all at once)įWIW, I always retorque a new head gasket at least twice with a few heat cycles between each retorque. Do each bolt one at a time and in the proper torquing sequence (i.e., loosen the first bolt, then re-torque it, then move on to the second. If its already leaking what's the worst that could happen? There - I said it out loud.īack each bolt off 1/4 turn and torque to spec (with the engine stone cold of course) and see what happens. Seriously guys? Just re-torque the damned thing. ![]() If you are going to use it, make sure that the water to the heater core is blocked off, and flush the system after the leak stops. ![]() I have never had good luck with the sealant stuff - yes it stops the leak, but I've also clogged two heater cores.
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